Showing posts with label picture elements. Show all posts
Showing posts with label picture elements. Show all posts

Tutorial - Photo montage

Here is an interesting montage that I have created for a book cover on feminine spirituality. The original sculpture is a large item in a stately home in England and I photographed it using the natural, available light coming into the gallery. I also tried to position myself not only to get a decent composition of the sculpture, but also to try and get a plain background - in this case a stone wall - instead of a background cluttered by other sculptures or windows.

Once I had downloaded it onto the computer, I then opened the image in Photoshop and used the rectangular marquee tool to draw a rectangle around the whole image. I then went into Edit/Copy. Then I went into File/New and the menu that opens then has the correct dimensions for a the new file canvas that I am going to create. At the bottom of this menu I selected the 'Clear background' option, opened the new file and then opened Edit/Paste to put this image of the sculpture onto a clear background. I then used the eraser tool to rub away all the backround, getting in very close with a small diameter eraser so that I could get into all the little corners and angles. I am then left with an image of the statue on a clear background. I then selected another image of a dramatic sky, making sure that the image of the sky was more than big enough to create a background to the sculpture image and that both files had the same resolution - in this case 72 d.p.i.  These settings could be altered and matched using the Image/Image size menu. I chose the largest sky image that I could because if the image was quite small, even though I could enlarge it to a decent size, the image quality would be poor, looking 'grainy' or having a coarse texture.

I opened the sky image, and then, using the marqee tool, I drew a rectangle around the sculpture image, copied it as before and pasted it onto the sky image by clicking on the sky image window to activate it and then going into Edit/Paste. The sculture then sits against a dramatic sky. Using the 'Move' tool, I could move the sculture image around over the sky to get the best position. I wanted the lightning to appear to be related to the vase/beaker that she is holding aloft. Once I was happy with the positioning and also happy that there were no remanants of the original background wall in front of the sky, I cropped the image and then saved it as a jpeg by going into File/Save As and selecting jpeg as the file type.

In it's original form, this image is made up of two layers -  the background sky (base layer) with a clear film (Layer 1) laid over it on which is printed the sculture image. However, once I save this as a jpeg, these layers are merged together and I will no longer have the opportunity to move the sculpture into a new position over the background. If I want to keep the option of being able to move the sculpture to a new position against the sky, I will also have to save the image as a Photoshop file rather than a jpeg.

Tutorial - Photomontage - Elements and layers


The last few years have been a very arid period for my photography and creativity generally. It just seems to happen sometimes that I do not feel able to get motivated and inspired in my photography. Still, a few ideas have been buzzing around and they have all centred around photomontage work. Here is one example that I have done recently. This image is concerned with spirituality and unity. Androgynous forms have been used in a number of mystical circles to portray unity and the transcendence of gender and differences between existents.

This montage is made up of a number of images garnered from the web which are then placed on top of one another using layers in photoshop. The first layer in the background, with subsequent layers moving to the foreground. The order here is: stars, earth, moon, wings, nude and goats head. To make it easier, the planetary background and the figure were initially created separately. In this case, to create the earth element, the image file of earth was opened. Click on the dotted box in the tools pallette and draw a rectangle around the whole file. Then click on Edit/copy. Then, click on file/new and open a new file making sure that the box next to 'transparent' at the bottom, is checked. A blank file with a checkboard pattern opens to the same size as your earth file. Make this file active by clicking on it and then click on 'Edit/Paste'. Your earth image is pasted into this new file. Using the erase tool in the tool pallette erase everything bit the image of the earth and save as a Photoshop file. Open your starfield file. Click on your earth image file and as before, using the tool indicated in the tool pallette by a dotted rectangle, drag a box around this file. Click Edit/Copy. Make your starfield file active by clicking on it, and then click 'Edit/Paste'. Because the image of the earth is on a transparent base, the earth image now sits on top of your starfield file. You can move this earth image around by using the move tool next to the dotted rectangle on the tool pallette. You can continue to add elements in this way. Always save these files as Photoshop files or you will lose the layers. Only when you are happy with the final image can you save it as a jpeg file. All layers then merge into one single layer and elements can no longer be moved.

The best photographic article you could ever read!

This article could save you hundreds of pounds and hours of wasted time! When people admire my images and make complimentary remarks, (not all people do by any means), then the second thing they usually say is something like: ‘You must have an expensive camera’, or they enquire as to what camera I use. These questions and comments referring to the camera that I use show a fundamental misunderstanding about the nature of photography: they assume that to take good photographs, a person has to have an expensive camera. The truth is that I have seen professional photographers take far better pictures on an Instamatic or Polaroid camera than I could ever take using a Nikon or Hasselblad.

Primarily, photography is about perception: it is about a way of seeing the world around you and then using the camera and other tools to capture your perception. The very fact that, out of all the reality which you encounter day by day, you choose to select and frame one particular aspect of it and do so from a particular vantage point at a particular time, means that what you are saying to other people is: ‘This is interesting and worth looking at.’. That is the primary skill of photography. The secondary skill is being able to select and use the right camera and related equipment for the job of recording that perception.

This in turn means that you must have a love of the subject which you are photographing. You will not see any animal pictures on this blog: I am not an animal loving person, I don’t go all gooey and soft when I see a monkey, or a wild bird, or a dog. So I don’t photograph these subjects. You will not see many pictures of people on this blog. I am no good with people: I do not establish a quick rapport with them or enjoy meeting new people. So I do not do wedding photography or portraiture, because the main skills of weddings and portraits involves a love of and rapport and skill with people, an interest in them and who they are, an ability to organize them without giving offence and so on. You can see from my images that I enjoy landscapes and more than that, a particular way of perceiving landscapes, often involving a minimalist approach which sometimes verges on the abstract.

I have recently been to two photographic exhibitions, one a prestigious exhibition at Keele University in Staffordshire, the other, a more local affair in the local town library. What impressed me was the difference between the content of the two and this was revealed not so much in the technical skills but in the way images were perceived. Even in the local exhibition, images were well exposed, sharp and probably taken on a range of equipment not dissimilar to those at Keele. But when it came to how the images were perceived, there was a vast difference.

The perception of an image is translated to the photograph primarily in terms of composition: the vantage point and arrangement of elements in the picture and secondarily by the camera and its related use and equipment. Basically this means that it is no use having a well exposed, sharp picture if the composition is crap! Photography then is about learning to see, about understanding what the elements of a picture are, which element is the most important, how that element can be made to stand out in the picture and how it can be balanced with other elements in the picture, such as for example by using the rule of thirds touched on elsewhere in this blog. So the prime skill of photography is composition. The secondary skill is knowing how to use the camera and its accessories to capture that composition sharply and with the desired exposure.

Only when you know what subjects you are likely to be photographing can you begin to think about what equipment you need. Birds and animals often require a telephoto lens to get in close to the subject. Wedding photographers need reliable equipment that will stand up to a lot of use. They also need backup equipment to deal with any equipment failure and need to know about lighting and flash modes to cope with a wide range of lighting conditions and locations. My kind of photography requires a good wide angle lens. If you are thinking of publishing photographs, recording and documenting images that may require big enlargements, then you need lots of megapixels and a quality camera. If you are just entering local competitions, or doing 7 x 5 inch or 10 x 8 inch prints for albums, with an occasional 10x12 inch print, then 6 megapixels is quite enough.

But what I am trying to say is that it is not primarily the camera that takes a good photograph, it is the photographer and the skill of the photographer in perceiving an image and composing it within the frame. For example, a lot of the images in the local exhibition did not have a clear focal element: there was not an object or area in the picture to which they eye was drawn, or if there was, it was poorly placed within the frame: too low, or too far to one side. Sometimes, there was a conflict of elements: a picture of people playing crown green bowls was taken in such a way as to be neither one thing nor the other. Surrounding the green was a lovely array of flowers in a border display. The photographer clearly wanted to get these in the picture, so the bottom half of the picture consisted of these flowers but cropped at the side and bottom and the middle third consisted of people bowling, partly obscured by these flowers and making up quite a small element of the picture. The top third was of sky and trees. This was neither a picture of the flowers nor the bowlers, but bits of both.

Time and time again, aspiring amateur photographers show me their pictures and one of the biggest problems is poor composition. Years ago, when I was an art student, I used to spend time in the art college library looking at the photographic books, especially the annuals which showed the beat photographs or advertising photography of that year. I spent time deciding which were my favourite images and why. I analysed them as to why I liked them, as to what it was about them that made them appealing to me. I studied their compositions, their arrangement of picture elements, levels of viewpoint, use of shape and colour and so on. I tried to copy their style in my own images and failed dismally, but over time, my own distinctive style emerged. I learned to see in photographic terms and this is what I would encourage any amateur photographer to do: study top class photographs, find what you like and analyse them as to what makes them great pictures. Then try to emulate them and hopefully your own style will emerge. The camera equipment is secondary.

Composition and perception - examples of problems





Here are some examples of poor composition or similar problems. 1) This composition is not bad - a little cropping at the bottom would lower the horizon and improve the picture, but there is no main element of interest. 2) The castle is cropped on the right. 3) The people are looking the wrong way, out of the picture to the right. It would be much better if they were looking in the picture to the castle on the left. 4) The light coming through the trees is in the right position, about one third in from the right, but there is no real strong focal point of interest. 5) The people are too far to the left.

Composition and perspective - Examples of problems







All these examples show what I mean by poor composition: 1) the black and white photo has the horizon too high and the tops of the trees cropped. 2) The signpost is obscured by an horizon that is too high. 3) There is no real focal point in the backlit tree other than the tree itself which is cropped. 4) The ruined building, which is the focal point of the next picture is obcured by the tree and the sky is too 'busy' with the branches and detracts from the main element of the building. 5) The trunks of the trees are obsured by the background and the branches are cropped at the top and right of the picture.